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Sunday AfterLOOM

Mac & Magic Loom Design invites you to join the public showLOOM on Sunday AfterLOOM at the Drielandenpunt Aachen-Vaals (Dreiländereck/les trois bornes) every Sunday from 14:00-16:00 (just on sunny days!)


Out of Taiwan: We invite you to our experiment to follow the Austronesians by their ethnic looms on their way starting from the Chinese mainland about more than 3.000 years ago into the Pacific world, the Philippines, downwards to Papua-Neuguinea and after all westwards towards Indonesia further on, reaching Madagascar, Hawaii and the Eastern Islands about 800 CE. The last step of this movement reached Nea Zealand about 1200 CE.


Our Austronesian move is accompanied by some Austroasiatic models of „mainland loin looms“, as we find many of them in the melting pot of Northeast India & surrounding.


Every Sunday we will present another loin loom-type of Austronesian or Austroasiatic cultures. You’re welcomed to join us:


1) Chakma Loom Experiment: Experimental stake loom of the Chakma people, NE India mixed with an Indonesian flat warp, similar to the Maya loin looms, well known in the 70s.


2) Borderless Weaving: Simple stake loom with an Indonesian-style flat warp.


3) Cham Pa-Rade: Stake loom of the Cham-Rade people, Vietnam with a basic circular warp.


4) Java Calling: Advanced Foot loom, Early Java-type with flat warp (Denim).


5) Taiwan Tuk Tuk: Foot loom box  of the Atayal people on Taiwan with a circular warp.


6) Walking Sprit: Early Paiwan foot loom (bamboo cane beam), circular warp.


7) Good Morning, Champa: Station loom of the Cham people, Vietnam with a circular warp.


8) Out of Baduy: Rebuild of an early stilt loom of the Baduy people (Kanekes), Java by a circular warp.


9) Bhutan Stilts: Ancient stilt loom of the Bhutanese Pang Tha with circular warp.


10) Mish Mush Loom: Experimental Mish MushLoom of two further stilt loom types (Arunachal Pang Tha & Sulawesi Gorontalo) with one and the same circular warp, basing on the stiltwork of the two last examples, the Baduy & the Bhutan stilts. With this last move we follow the Majapahit slogan: Unity in diversity! A huge cultural „Mish Mush“ that forms nowadays Indonesia, next to the Philippines the great cultural center of the Austronesian world - already an unity of diversity in itself.


With this crossover inbetween the ethnic models the 4 basic groups of mobile loin loom types are presented: A) Foot Loom, B) Stake loom, C) Stilt loom & D) Station loom. The further two groups of E) Seat loom & F) Frame loom keep missing in our presentation. For this first round and basic understanding of loin looms they are not that important. On top they are less mobile, so out of program for our public showLOOM at Sunday AfterLOOM. All these here shown models may show out, why we understand all these types are still just „foot looms“ (foot-braced loin-tensioned hand looms), just some more basic, some other more advanced, but for all these the foot work keeps essential. Just a few types start to work without footwork (Bali, Hmong/Miao) as the following groups of Seat loom & Frame loom develop on.


The whole excursion is celebrated by just 4 or 5 different warps, what means, the authentic warp isn't presented with each loom type. Even it would have had its sense to show you the authentic ethnic garments belonging to each ethnic loom, the focus of Sunday AfterLOOM is set onto the experiment to travel between these ethnic models back into time to reach a practical test of their thought connections. On top it demonstrates their usefulness in daily work.


Check the online calendar for coming Sunday afterLOOM’s program:


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Sunday AfterLOOM on U2B





Reaching Banten/Java - backstrap weaving

By the support of this stilt loom, a kind of Austronesian loin loom, we are reaching the Kanekes/Baduy people of Banten province on Java Island in Indonesia.

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Reaching Champa - backstrap weaving

This short video introduces you the Champa station loom, an Austronesian kind of backstrap weaving loin loom. The Kingdom of Champa (nowadays Central Vietnam) is vanished from the map, but their looms are going on, even not many of these station looms are left! In most cases Austronesian cultures are found on the islands of South-East Asia (ISEA), that's what the term "Austronesian" talks about. But in this case it's different! The Cham people belong to the Sundanese people, and originate on Borneo in Indonesia/Malaysia, before they turned to the mainland along the Mekhong Delta about 0 CE. Their language, culture and this station loom belong to the Austronesian group.


This station enables you to weave in any desired width, that the weaver's nature can get managed! (1,50m). In general the Cham weavers use a little batten rest table, that identifies its Indonesian connection! This table is used to rest the batten on demanded height, while weaving!



"Components of a Baduy Loom" and "The HIP LOOM-Collection"

to get an idea about batten rest tables!

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Reaching Java - backstrap weaving

Loom Design/Reaching Space/Java  >> | Indonesia

This advanced foot loom type you won't find that easy nowadays. It's an early bird of Austronesian loin looms on Java Island in Indonesia. It demonstrates the development of early foot loom types to later following stilt looms. Due to its little wooden stands, the warp beam rests on, it's anyway between both groups (foot loom & stilt loom, what we call an "advanced" foot loom, where the weaver receives any kind of support to ease the continuous foot work. We use a flat warp on this loom in this session, what shows out reasons of its further development in history. You may also run this loom with a circular warp! In light of the year of the ox 2021 we designed it ourselves in an abstract shape of an ox, reminding the powerful cooperation of the ox spirit, enabling the Austronesian AND Austro-asiatic cultures to expand successfully by their wet-ricefield-cultivation method.

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Reaching Bhutan - backstrap weaving

This short video introduces you to the so-called Phang Thak, an Austro-asiatic type of loin loom, used in Bhutan, but also neighbouring Seven Sister States of NE-India. The triangular-shaped leading of the circular warp seems unique, at least in this size, but we may observe the use of this triangular-shape in the warp leading by some other (Austronesian) tribes on Taiwan. The stilts of this loom are made by bamboo canes, connected by a rope to the tree. Modern versions of this older stilt loom-type include two rails, what develops them to a stand-alone station loom-type. These modern station looms can stand by itself without any connection to tree, pile or wall. In addition of a platform to take seat on, they become a type of seat loom


Take notice of the foot-brace, that shows out, why we like to argue, that even these comfortable loin loom-types are just a kind of more advanced foot looms!


Have a closer look to the Phang Thak!

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The World - backstrap weaving

This short video introduces you to six different backstrap weaving loin looms of several Austronesian & Austro-asiatic ethnic groups. On top we present you one of the warping devices, a reduced method, similar to the warping method of Karen and Chakma people:


  1. Experimental Chakma Stake Loom - Seven Sister States, NE-India
  2. Karen Warping device - Myanmar/West Thailand
  3. Early Javanese (advanced) Foot Loom - Java, Indonesia
  4. The Atayal Box Loom - Taiwan
  5. The Paiwan Foot Loom - Taiwan
  6. The Baduy/Kanekes Stilt Loom - West Java, Indonesia
  7. The Bhutan Stilt Loom (Phang Thak) - Bhutan


Even we tried as far as possible to construct authentic models, due to time limit, none of these loom models is complete in its details. Anyway, it's more important to rebuilt the possible "lost versions" between these existing ones: 


1) Simplified Chakma Stake Loom

The Chakma people are great in working with a lot of heddles on a circular warp. On quiet simple stake looms, they do fantastic patterns on textiles of enormous width. Our rebuild is reduced to a western style flat warp method with 4 heddles! 


2) Karen-like Warping

The warping device is a mix up of Chakma and Karen-style. We left the insertion of the shed roll out of this warping process, to add it later on. To prevent the beams tilting inwards, we added a horizontal wooden strip on top.


Watch us "Preparing backstrap weaving" within 16 secs.!



3) Early Javanese Foot Loom

The early Javanese foot loom is a rebuild of early loom types on Java Island in Indonesia, you won't find that easy nowadays. In view of the year of the ox, we decided this abstract design in shape of an ox. Anyway the ox/buffalo is an important icon for many Austronesian and Austro-asiatic tribes, they needed for their wet-ricefields-agriculture. This type of loom demonstrates the development from foot loom-types to first types of stilt/stake looms. In this session we run it by flat warp-solution.


Watch us "Reaching Java - backstrap weaving" this early bird!



4) Atayal Box Loom

This so-called box loom is another type of "advanced" foot looms, used by the Atayal people on Taiwan Island. These are the modern types of the earlier (camphor) trunk looms. This rebuild misses its typical twig-shaped heddle rod and other details. We are using a circle warp, that's authentic with this kind of loom, even you may observe flat warps used nowadays by some people on Taiwan. By the height of the box a triangular leading of the warp is shaped, what effects the warp's tension.


Watch us "Reaching Taiwan - backstrap weaving" in the box!



5) Paiwan Foot Loom

The foot loom with this huge bamboo cane is used by the Paiwan people on Taiwan Island. This type  may be about 3.000 years old. Foot looms with a standard size bamboo cane are known at least since 7.000 years, but these huge canes may be younger. Already the use of this huge cane shows a small kind of triangular-shaped leading of the warp.


Watch us "Reaching beyond - backstrap weaving" this cane! 



6) Kanekes Stilt Loom

This kind of stilt loom is used by the Kanekes people (Baduy) in province of Banten on Java Island (Indonesia), close to Sumatra Island. The Kanekes people use a flat warp on their loom, what is a typical thing for many looms in regions of Sumatra Island. As we wondered about the change from an authentic circle warp to a flat warp-method within the loom of the Kanekes people, we did this experiment, running it by a circle warp, what actually suceeded! A reed, a yoke and a batten rest have to be added to build an authentic Kanekes loom.


Watch us "Reaching Banten - backstrap weaving" by these stilts!



7) Phang Thak - Bhutanese Stilt Loom

The last model ( a bit cut off at the end of the video) shows the so-called Phang Thak, an impressive loom of Bhutan. It's the basic kind of stilt loom, the nowadays famous station-type of Bhutanese loom derives of. Two rails and a platform are added to this stilt loom to build the nowadays station-type. The stilt loom has to be connected to a tree or pile, while the station loom stands by itsself.


Watch us "Reaching Bhutan - backstrap weaving" by the Phang Thak!



Dieses kurze Video stellt 6 verschiedene Hüftwebstühle von diversen Austronesischen und Austro-asiatischen ethnischen Volksgruppen vor. Obendrein wird eine reduzierte Gängelmethode auf einem nahezu authentischen Gerät vorgestellt, das den Methoden der Karen oder Chakma ähnelt.


  1. Experimenteller Chakma Pfahlwebstuhl - Sieben Schwester Staaten, Nordost-Indien
  2. Karen Gängelgerät - Myanmar/West Thailand
  3. Früher Javanischer (fortgeschrittener) Fusswebstuhl - Java, Indonesien
  4. Atayal Kastenwebstuhl - Taiwan
  5. Paiwan Fusswebstuhl - Taiwan
  6. Baduy/Kanekes Stelzenwebstuhl - West Java, Indonesien
  7. Bhutan Selzenwebstuhl (Phang Thak) - Bhutan


Auch wenn wir versucht haben, die verschiedenen Modelle so authentisch wie möglich zu gestalten, ist aufgrund zeitlicher Beschränkungen kein Modell in seinen Details vollständig. Ohnehin ist es wichtiger, die möglichen "verlorenen" Modellen zwischen den existierenden Hüftwebstühlen aufzuzeigen:


1) Vereinfachter Chakma Pfahlwebstuhl

Die Volksgruppen der Chakma sind beeindruckend in ihrer Arbeit mit einer Unzahl von Litzenstäben auf einer zirkulierenden Rundkette. Auf ziemlich einfach ausgestatteten Pfahlwebstühlen gestalten sie fantastische Muster auf Textilien mit extremer Breite. Unser vereinfachter Nachbau wurde auf eine flache Kette westlichen Stils mit vier Litzenstäben reduziert.



2) Gängeln wie Karen

Dieses Gängelgerät ist eine Mischung aus Chakma und Karen-Methoden. Wir haben die Einführung der Fachrolle aus diesem Prozess weg gelassen, um sie anschließend gesondert hinzu zu fügen. Um dem Einwärts-Biegen der Bäume (Kett- und Brustbaum) vorzubeugen, wurde eine Holzleiste oben hinzugefügt. 


Schau uns  "Preparing backstrap weaving" in 16 Sekunden!



3) Früher Javanischer Fusswebstuhl

Dieser frühe javanische Fusswebstuhl ist ein Nachbau eines frühen Webstuhl-Typus auf der Insel Java in Indonesien, den man heutzutage nur schwer zu Gesicht bekommt. In Anbetracht des Ochsenjahres 2021 haben wir ihn in der abstrakten Form eines Ochsen gestaltet, denn ohnehin ist der Büffel/Ochse ein wichtiges Zeichen für viele Austronesische wie Austro-asiatische Volksstämme, die sie für ihre Nassreisfeld-Kultivierungen einsetzen. Dieser Typus veranschaulicht die Entwicklung vom Fusswebstuhl zu den ersten Versionen von Stelzen- und Pfahlwebstühlen. In dieser Sitzung benutzen wir eine flache Webkette.


Schau uns "Reaching Java - backstrap weaving" diesen frühen Vogel!



4) Atayal Kastenwebstuhl

Dieser sogenannte Kastenwebstuhl ist ein weiteres Beispiel eines "fortgeschrittenen" Fusswebstuhls, wie er von den Atayal Stämmen auf der Insel Taiwan benutzt wird. Es handelt sich hierbei um die moderne Version der früher verbreiteten (Kampher-) Stammwebstühle. Dieser Nachbau vermisst seinen typischen zweigähnlichen Litzenstab und weitere kleine Details. Wir setzen eine zirkulierende Rundkette ein, wie sie auf solchen Webstühlen eingesetzt wird, auch wenn man derweil auch den Einsatz von flachen Ketten auf Taiwan beobachten kann. (In welche Kategorie kann die Wissenschaft diese Versionen einordnen > foot loom with flat warp!?) Mittels der Höhe des Kastens wird eine dreieckige Führung der Webkette ausgebildet, wie wir sie auch bei dem Phang Thak in Bhutan beobachten können!


Schau uns "Reaching Taiwan - backstrap weaving" im Kasten!



5) Paiwan Fusswebstuhl

Dieser Fusswebstuhl mit seinem großem Bambusrohr wird von den Paiwan Stämmen auf Taiwan benutzt. Dieser Typ mag in etwa 3.000 Jahre alt sein. Fusswebstühle mit einem gewöhnlichen Bambusrohr als Kettbaum sind auf dem Festland Chinas schon mindestens 7.000 Jahre bekannt, doch der Einsatz solch großer Bambusrohre mag jüngerem Datums entstehen. Schon der Einsatz von solchen übergroßen Bambusrohren (im Durchmesser) läßt eine kleine Version von einer Dreiecksführung der Webkette entstehen, wie wir sie bei dem Atayal Kastenwebstuhl und bei dem Phang Thak aus Bhutan beobachten können. 


Schau uns "Reaching beyond - backstrap weaving" dieses Rohr! 



6) Kanekes Stelzenwebstuhl

Diese Art eines Stelzenwebstuhls wird von den Kanekes (Baduy) in der Provinz Banten auf Java (nahe Sumatra) in Indonesien genutzt. Die Kanekes-Stämme benutzen augenscheinlich eine flache Webkette auf ihrem Webstuhl, was man auch bei einigen Webstühlen in Regionen auf Sumatra als typisch beobachten kann. Da wir uns über den Verwendung der flachen Kette bei den Kanekes wunderten, haben wir versucht, ihn mit einer zirkulierenden Rundkette zu betreiben, was uns, wie man sieht, erfolgreich gelang! Ein Riet, ein Hüftbaum und eine Schwertablage müssen noch zu unserem Nachbau hinzugefügt werden, um einen authentischen Kanekes Webstuhl zu erhalten!


Schau uns "Reaching Banten - backstrap weaving" mit diesen Stelzen!



7) Phang Thak - Bhutanischer Stelzenwebstuhl

Das letzte Modell ( ein bisschen abgeschnitten am Ende des Videos) zeigt den sogenannten Phang Thak, ein eindrucksvoller Hüftwebstuhl aus Bhutan. Es handelt sich hierbei um das Basismodell eines Stelzenwebstuhls, von dem die heutzutage berühmten Webstationen Bhutans abstammen. Zwei Schienen und eine Plattform werden hinzugefügt, um die heutigen Webstationen zu erhalten! Der Stelzenwebstuhl muss an einen Baum oder Pfeiler angebunden werden, während die Webstation ohne Arretierung auskommt.


Schau uns "Reaching Bhutan - backstrap weaving" mit dem Phang Thak!

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Sunday afterLOOM 210822

Bhutanic Looming


Sunday AfterLOOM  @Drielandenpunt Vaals

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Out of Baduy!

Sunday afterLOOM @Drielandenpunt

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Good Morning, Champa!


Sunday AfterLOOM to Champhala.


[07] Last week we got the message in a bottle, that our beloved Dr. Samson Dietrich Sauerbier has left his bottle already on 4th of October 2019; since then never seen again!


He is the forecaster (Wahrnehmungstheorie & Semiotik) of the khb (kunsthochschule berlin-weißensee); without him the whole tribe and their entire (reception of the) world seems pretty endangered!


So this week‘s Sunday AfterLOOM we use to celebrate a requiem while the funeral happening. [„Bettler later than never!“ und/oder „Es muss einem ja auch mal gesagt werden“ - sds2001]


The Ancient Thing

Let us use this moment to demonstrate a bit of the world from the other side of the loom. Not the production of garment but keeping contact to the „ancient thing“ was and is still main purpose of the loom, that keeps the reception of the woven world in balance and in-tact. First piece of a cultural cloth - made by silk! - may be woven for funeral purpose (shroud). It‘s a type of modified Austronesian funeral by a station loom of the Cham people in Vietnam. The essence of Sauerbier gets sprinkled all over the ground while thousands of looms ride over. For this purpose his „“Fetisch“-collection appears pretty predestinated, du Champ!


Champa Station

Champa was a Hindu kingdom (later mainly muslim) in nowadays Vietnam. All time long always in struggle with the surrounding kingdoms, in the mid of the 19th century it got erased from the landmap, but their looms are still going on. It‘s a pretty cozy station-type of a Loin loom (backstrap loom) with all kind of comfort and a real eye-catcher! 


The Cham people belong to the Sundanese people, and so a part of the Austronesian world. Once leaving Borneo homeland in Indonesia they separated and returned to the mainland at the Mekhong Delta. Later they established the Champa kingdom at the 3rd century CE. They have been great sailors, navigators and traders on top. Their architecture and cultural habits are remarkable!


Looms of Champa 

Due to the situation we‘ll find several different cultural looms within nowadays Vietnam, but also the Cham made use of several types of looms, as far we know. Some of the tribes (Rade) use still the type of basic stake loom without any additional station, that we presented you already at the second Sunday Afterloom (Cham Pa-Rade).


This basic loin loom with a circular warp has got fixed onto a wooden station, made by 2 rails & poles. This station is a kind of prototype for the following seat loom generation, a kind of half-frame looms. The tension is still controlled by the weaver‘s loin. This size of station loom isn‘t that much mobile anymore, just flexible enough to move around within a small distance area or by car……or easily stored away. But the basic loom elements can be separated within seconds and the loom is ready to go 4U. You may find also smaller sizes of station looms, this heavy size-type of station allows me any possible width, that‘s demanded.


Batten Rest & Foot Brace

This type of station loom is a seldom thing on southeast Asian mainland, but a typical development for Indonesian loin looms. And as most of these Indonesian station looms the Cham station set includes a so-called batten rest, a small flat table to rest the batten on precious level, while insertion of the weft yarn. (This table is missing on show today!) Another essential part for most of loin looms is the so-called foot brace. As you can imagine, it‘s a very functional component of the loom, as it supports the tension.


Just another advanced Foot Loom?

On top it shows out, that even these much more comfortable station-type of loin looms are at the end still a type of advanced foot looms. Other methods and developments (I.e. Bali & Hmong/Miao) show, that this is not really necessarily a functional thing, but a cultural bridge kept on functional sphere. Have an eye onto the pretty ancient solution to reach the foot brace if the length of the warp is oversized!


Another precious thing with the Cham Station are the two diagonal rails, made by bamboo canes. They are used to set the level of the warp beam, on top to rest several components of the loom and last but not least to ease orientation and balance for the weaver.


If you are interested in backstrap weaving we guess this is the most interesting kind of station loom, that offers you many solutions within just one model. With some few modifications you may simulate most other cultural and/or functional types of loin looms.




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A Cloud a Day!



This week we wanted to present you a station-type of an Austronesian Loin loom from Vietnam, but rain started on time, while setting up the loom on spot. As the setup of a station loom means more work to carry all components on place and of course a bit more time for the installation, we decided just on spot, that this is too much hassle for today, so we cancel the regular Sunday AfterLOOM for today. But don‘t worry, we are going to show you the Champa Station Loom next Sunday at the Drielandenpunt, as far as weather will be fine!


On top you may have a preview onto the Cham Loom at our Loin Loom Lab (Playlist). Watch out for „Red Turn to Champa“! Anyway, this cancellation may give you a hint onto the differences between the until here shown simpler Foot loom & Stake loom-types of loin looms (Backstrap looms) and the coming station-type of the Cham people: As far as a station may offer you several comfort, when you stay home with your loom, but it is not that flexible and mobile compared with a stake loom. Of course you may move without the station, so far the warp (basic loom components) keeps still mobile, so you may still go on using it anywhere (even as a foot loom), but the whole thing, the station and its comfort, stays home.


Station Loom

Most stations are made by wooden components. It seems they are inventions of later times and basing on periods of settlement. What we call station is just a set of two heavy rails with holes to insert poles into, where the basic loin loom gets connected to. Some older types are built with a kind of crawls, showing out that their main purpose was set to be used more or less outdoor; while other tend to indoor or veranda models. Many of these stations pop up in Indonesia within the Javanization era (Majapahit, etc.). Most of them are accompanied by a yoke and a batten rest table, while some include a reed comb and changed to a flat warp (Java/Sumatra), but the Champa Loom still goes on with its original circular warp.


See you next week for a Sunday AfterLOOM at the Drielandenpunt, Aachen-Vaals (14:00-16:00].



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Walking Spirit

[06] Welcome at the Sunday AfterLOOM at the Drielanderpunt Aachen-Vaals.


Mac & Magic Loom Design proudly presents you its new Bamboo Foot Loom from the Paiwan people on Taiwan in the public showLOOM! It seems it‘s the previous model of the Atayal Box Loom, a very early bird. Even these foot loom type of loin looms once have spread allover the main part of southern Chinese mainland, you won‘t find any of them on nowadays mainland, just on Taiwan and Hainan this type of loin loom (backstrap loom) survived.


Foot loom of an Ancient Time

Already finds from ancient times show bamboo canes used for warp beams, even this is a pretty huge one. In following times these huge canes seem to be exchanged by even more huge, wooden models, made of trunks from I.e. camphor trees, before modern times designed the nowadays box types, we showed you on last Sunday AfterLOOM.


For a perfect Paiwan-Style bamboo cane loom you may add a twig-type of heddle and another twig-shaped warp divider (shed rod).


This old version may get a bit seldom, but you may find even bigger sized versions. Nobody knows, but we can imagine, that these huge cane types have been existing already since 3.000 years and more. You may think it‘s uncomfortable to balance this easily 6-8 kg heavy cane on your toes while weaving, but you may be surprised it‘s not after you tried it once. It gives a totally new sensation of comfortability.


Spreading Width

The width of the warp is limited by the spreading of the weaver’s legs, but with some exercise and fitting circumstances you may reach 1,20 m of width. Any kind of garment can be produced by this loom, not just light cloth lacking density. You may weave a heavy denim, no probs! Even silk works out; you may wonder, but first silkwork of the world is done by these bamboo loin looms.


The world of the basic silkworm is the bamboo and works have been realized by these simple bamboo looms, you won‘t believe!  We may also think the size of the cane is just a functional thing to get distance between the upper and the lower warp, and to build a small triangular-shaped leading of the warp, but that‘s just the pragmatical part of this „stoneage artwork“:


Another part is a sculptural thing of expression, initializing the museal presentation of their cultural artifacts. So this kind of foot loom is not just practical & mobile thing, but a cultural beauty on top.


And again we use one of our Karen-style warps, so it‘s not authentic on this ethnic loom, demonstrating that in many, if not most cases, the warp can be transferred from one loom to an other. That's a great thing with loin looms!



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