TrumPat

Loom Design/Loomates/Champa   >> | Vietnam 

In the last days I saw a video recording of the second day of the IASSRT Symposium 2022 with a presentation of John K. M. Ang about Cham Textiles on the Maritime Silk Road showing some great pieces of red coloured ikat works from Cambodia/Vietnam in the 17th and 18th century. By the power of this colour work let's return to the Kingdom of Champa:

As John mentions, the Cham people are muslims to that time. Further on he wonders, that one of the shown silkworks in red shows a Naga-motif: Muslim weaving a hinduistic/buddhistic Naga? On top John informs us about Cham people, that have migrated from Champa in nowadays Vietnam to some small islands between Malaysia and Borneo island.

I'll use this situation to lay back into the strap and remind us some deeper informations. Let's enjoy the praise in the shadow and saddle our Cham loom: Yes, the Cham people are Muslim   ....and no, some remain their hinduistic belief. (>> Bacam?!) Remind, that still now this Bacam society in Vietnam is the second (of the two only) non-indian Hindu-society outside India - Number one is Bali!

From 2nd century on, the Cham people became Hindu by the influence of neighbouring Cambodia. Other sources mention, the pre-Cham people became Hindu by early trading contacts to Northeast India. Up to the 17th century the Royal yard of Champa remained Hindu, but trading and inner-political circumstances led to a religious change, because the majority of Cham people converted already to Muslim belief. First, traders of the Cham people started this change to Muslim religion already in the 10th century to succeed in trading operations!

Not just Naga motifs on textiles, but the great red brick door gate-temples in Central Vietnam witness this still lasting Hinduistic period of the Cham people, even the empire has disappeared. Anyway, the converted Cham people are keeping several traditions and beliefs of older days.

So, we shouldn't wonder about Nagas on red Cham textiles, and muslim inscription on Cham textiles inform about this historical change. To the time of this textile the Royal Yard of Champa had just converted to Muslim belief. The textile with its dubios Nagas may be woven by one of the Bacam, remaining Hindu.

And we shouldn't ignore the importance of the message of these boats on one of the shown Cham ikats. Boats, that we can find quiet often even on some temples on Java. These boats are related to the Cham people and their importance in not just their own history of Champa Kingdom, but on a much greater level for other realms in cooperation; i.e. Srivijaya, Majapahit. Already this two terms cover a great time frame of the influence of Cham people on the Maritime Silk Road, from 16th century back to the 7th century. 

While the Srivijaya-period the border to Siam was located about a 100 km north of Surat Thani in Thailand, where the peninsula from east to the west measures about 60 km.  Cham people used this land route from Surat to Ranong, shipping first from Ha Tien to Surat Thani area, to ship later on to the Bay of Bengal.

Next to textiles and looms we may also follow the fragrance of the durian to trace the track of the Cham people. It seems, Cham have reached the Bay of Bengal at least about 500 CE. Some other sources argue, they reached this Northeastern region of the Indian subcontinent already about 500 BCE, mentioning records of cloves and nutmeg in Roman and Egyptian empire (3rd century BCE). Cloves and nutmeg come from the Moluccans, traded on Java, exported to India by Cham people.

Phrases like "the immense impact of Indian cotton weaving including a reed comb onto the traditional weaving techniques in Southeast Asia led to the vanishing of backstrap cultures" goes hand in hand with the image of a "Greater India", what means, it sounds like an brutal invasion of India onto the whole Southeast Asian area - an era of Indian colonisation! But it's somehow the other way round! It was the interest of the Austronesians to textiles from India, that flooded the inner market including the later change of weaving skills.

But even this trade wasn't dominated by Indians, it was invoked by the Cham people in cooperation with Malaysian emperors and Austro-asiatic migrants in the Bengal area. So, at the end we find out, that this trade from Bengal area to Nusantara (Java) is initialised by members of Austroasiatic and Austronesian  groups. Shortly after their arrival in the Bengal-area these Austroasiatic tribes had assimilated with the Indian culture, what led already to immense influence of the migrants onto Indian culture. In the later cooperation with the Cham people a cultural re-flowering of Indian legends were initialised; Suvarnabhumi (re-)born! 

It seems the durian, that originates from Borneo and Sumatra, was introduced by Cham people to NE-India as a noble gift, what was lifted onto the stage of legendary Jambudvipa in a new version. Up to this moment the durian wasn't that much cultivated. Its wild versions are red, pinkish or even purple. By cultivation they became this "golden pillow" (green-brown skin with yellish meat), that Thailand mentions by the expression "Mpnthong". ("Musang King" is the Malaysian pendant!) This cultivation experiment of durian has happened first time in this Northeastern area of the Indian subcontinent. All over India durian isn't known, just in the Northeast! Some durian trees in Sri Lanka are reported, and some in Madagascar - but none of the locals seem to get friend with their fruits! This cultivated durian fruits of the "Seven Sisters" is what Sukhothai (13th-15th century) got in contact with by Northeast-India and builds the base of the successful worldwide export market of durians from Thailand nowadays. 

Now let's take a look onto the Champa loom, we use to trace back the movement of Cham people on the Maritime Silk Road. (Watch the video on this page!) Already the first look tells us, that this backstrap loom relates to the typical kind of weaving stations you find in Indonesia, spreading from Java to Sumatra, Bali and Lombok. Same as this Indonesian weaving stations it includes a batten rest tables, you won't find with other backstrap looms. But it doesn't include this typical Indonesian yoke. The Champa station loom uses a circular warp, while most Indonesian weaving stations have changed their original circular warp with a flat version rolled up on a warp board for the use of reed comb (Palembang, Javanese, Sundanese, Balinese, Lombok). Just the Banjuwangi station loom in East-Java has kept the original circular warp.

This station loom-type of Champa tells us their story in fragments: The Cham people originate once in Borneo and are part of Sundanese people. After a period of struggle in the Dong Son-era Sundanese people left Borneo, most of them to Java, while some target the Mekhong Delta for future enterprises. That happened around 0 CE. After settling along the Mekhong up to Cambodia they started to establish the Kingdom of Champa from 3rd century on in nowadays Central Vietnam. It's told, that this group of sailors had no cultural loom to this day, but needed one for national insignia and traditional identity. Therefor I guess, this Champa station loom is the "royal version". Next to it, we find a plain backstrap loom of the stake-type, used by the Rade people, a subgroup of Cham people in Vietnam. The station loom of Champa shows us the relation of the Cham people not just to Borneo, but the whole of Indonesia. The had strong relations to the Aceh region in North Sumatra, who speak a similar Austronesian-chamic language.

The Cham are not just A part of Sundanese people, but the sailor-"cast" of Sunda. Sundanese people belong to the Malayo-Polynesian group of Austronesians (one of four major language groups), who are famous for their sailing skills. The term Malayo-Polynesian came up a century ago by finding out, that several terms of Malaysian and Polynesian language are similar, if not equal. That led to further scientifical terms like "Austronesian" and "Austroasiatic". In general we can say, all people on SEA mainland are Austroasiatic, while all people on the islands are Austronesian. But Cham people are Austronesians on the mainland! First time I realised the connection in the type of station looms between Indonesia and Champa, I thought this may be a proof, that some of the migration from mainland onto the Indonesian islands may have started from Southern Vietnam to Borneo until historical records showed me the opposite. But the relation in between got clear just by its gestalt and supply. 

The Malayo-Polynesian went first targeting the Polynesian world, by this excursion reaching enormous skills in sailing. After this first period they target westwards, building up a trading network with Borneo as a center. Later they changed to the Mekhong Delta, always in cooperation with Malaysian emperors and traders. So Cham people in Indonesia is just "a return home"! Cham people are the makers of Srivijaya, Majapahit, Nusantara and even Suvarnabhumi! So there is no Indonesia or "unity in diversity" without the immense progress of Cham people.

We should know ,how to differ between Suvarnabhumi, Suvarnadvipa, Nusantara and Champa, but in general in India the term Suvarnabhumi is almost equal to Champa, what shows some knowledge about, who were the runner of this "golden enterprise" of a Greater India. Suvarnabhumi in present mind may have mutated to an airport with its 8 giant yak(sha)s in the entree hall, but the loom of the Cham enables us to reach Champa without an stop-over in Kunthep, but keeping the yakshas in heart, mind and loom!

In this period Borneo became THE southern island ("Austro-nesia") of Sundanese people.

Conclusions

As we sum up all these datas we'll reach the point, that Cham people have been already great players on the Maritime Silk Road since its very beginning; and not just in their region. They must have been THE great players to connect the Indian market and therewith the rest of the way to Middle East with ISEA and East Asia. The time frame of their progress is much wider than the 18th century, what's already close to the fall of Champa. If we believe the Roman records on cloves, they have been in the game for about 2.000 years! By their support Indian traders found quick solutions for alternative routes, in times when overland routes collapsed. Chinese, Indian and other traders were enabled to pass the sea of Southeast Asia without damage by their experienced support. Later on even straight trade by sea between India and China was enabled.

Loom Design/Mat Looms

Thailändischer Mattenwebstuhl [D?]

Thai Mat Loom 

Versionen von Mattenwebstühlen gibt es in Thailand zuhauf, doch scheinen die meisten auf Typen aus den Nachbarländern Kambodscha und Vietnam zurückzuführen zu sein. Ein beschreibend thailändische Version eines Mattenwebstuhls aus Thailand arbeitet dagegen mit einer rundlaufenden Kette und arbeitet mit einer besonderen Technik zur Fachbildung.

Ethnische Gruppe: Thai (austro-asiatisch) - Thailand.

Kategorie: [D] Externgestützter, externgespannter Handwebstuhl mit Rundkette {?)

Gruppe: Rahmenwebstuhl

Details: 

Kett-Typ: Rundkette

Loom Design/Loomates/Guatemala  >> | America

Several examples of backstrap weaving Maya loin looms with a flat warp in Guatemala (Central America).

Loom Design/Loomates/Sikka   >> | Flores  | Indonesia

The Sikka people on Flores island in Indonesia use backstrap weaving ground loom with a circular warp.

Loom Design/Loomates/Palembang  >>  | Indonesia  | Sumatra

The Palembang people of Southern Sumatra in Indonesia use a backstrap weaving station loom with a flat warp.

Loom Design/Loomates/Igorot   >> | Philippines

The Igorot people in Luzon (North Philippines) use a backstrap loom with a circular warp.

Loom Design/Loomates/Pacific

Some further examples of loin looms on Pacific islands (South Sea). Even the Austronesian expansion goes much further than these following islands, the expansion of their loin loom culture ends here. The Polynesian, a part of Austronesian people reached Hawaii and the Eastern Islands, but no loin looms are known in this area. 

Loom Design/Loomates/Flores  >>  | Indonesia

Loin Looms of Flores

The loin loom of the Sikka people on Flores Island in Indonesia is a perfect example of a stake loom-type. The Sikka weave very flat and horizontal to the ground, called a ground loom. As the length of their warps are usually quiet long (maybe about 4-5 m long circular warp), they like to use two further stakes, driven into the ground at the heights of their feet, to stop their foot-brace at! They don't use a reed comb, just the batten sword to beat-in the weft. Little bells are added to some of their batten rest tables. And of course, they use this typical Indonesian yoke. The height of the warp beam, what is actually in most cases rectangular, isn't managed by a rope to fixate as usual, but another stake and/or stone down under. That's another archaic brandmark of a Sikka Loom.

Ethnic group: Sikka (Austronesian) - Flores, Indonesia

Loom category: [B] Externally-braced, body-tensioned handlooms with a circular warp

Loin loom group: stake loom; subgroup: yard loom

warp type: circular warp

Watch Mac & Magic's Loomates-playlist on youTube:

The backstrap weaving Sikka Looms of Flores Island

Sikka-Weberinnen an ihren typischen angepflockten, flachen Bodenwebstühlen mit Rundkette, Ost-Flores, ca. 1915

(Le Roux - wikimedia)

Bildquelle:

Tropenmuseum - Le Roux: Weefsters met weeftoestellen, Sikka, Oost-Flores, ca. 1915 - https://hdl.handle.net/20.500.11840/7808

Loom Design/Loomates

A collection of mainly Austronesian & Austro-asiatic loin looms, mentioned also backstrap looms, waist looms or scientifically defined body-tensioned hand looms. There are several types of backstrap weaving looms, that all started with foot looms more than about 7.000 years ago and developed up to a kind of half-framed looms.

>> Table of Contents - backstrap weaving

These pages are still under construction, and this matter will keep for a while. The Loom(m)ates Collection tries as much as possible to work bilingual, in english and german.

The Loomates Collection focuses first at all onto informing the backstrap weaving tribes and nations about the immense wide range of loin loom types and its much wider spreading. To all the people, that have taught us all about loin loom weaving, each a part! Even most of you we never met! And all you, who have carried this cultural heritage thousands of years over mountains and high tides into the present age!

For most of the tribes it may be difficult to travel to even one of these places to witness their own grace. Visiting a museum doesn't fit either into most's daily schedule! But smartphones have entered nearby the jungle area! There are plenty of public informations, photos and videos about loin looms available on the net, but none is a all around collection. This collection tries to bundle at least the Austronesian and Austro-asiatic loin looms, as far available.

So to reach all these different nations and ethnic groups it needs one language to transfer. For the written part a plain English is chosen as far as possible, but the main language of this site shell become the pictures and videos, that most people should be able to follow. Anyway, even written words become more clear by their supporting statement. Our native language is German, so some thoughts and concepts need to be developed in German language, that we try step by step to translate into English phrases. Some pages are supported by a Google translator, but not all! But even this wouldn't reach all the people! Sorry, but we work on it! Some pages contain even local language for important items in Chinese, Indonesian, Hindi, Thai and so on!

At the moment some pages have no photos at all,

other appear just in English, others only in German!

- Sorry, it needs time to weave all these looms! -

For a introduction to the world of backstrap looms you may first at all visit the grouping of loin looms. 

Loomates - backstrap weaving video collection on youtube

Next to this site Loomates runs a video-collection of public videos about loin looms on youTube! It's sorted by ethnic groups and nations! You will find even some examples sorted into loom categories and groups. It's probably the quickest way to get an overview about all these types of backstrap looms! Several of these will be linked into this site for further discussion and explanations about.

>> Loomates wanted@youTube

Loom Design/Loomates/Africa

Webstuhl der Afrikanischen Kunst, vor 1922 (Brooklyn Museum - wikimedia)

Bildquelle:

• Brooklyn Museum - anonymous: Loom - Arts of Africa Collection, 1922 - CUR.22.177_front_PS5.jpg

Loom Design/Loomates/Sulawesi  >>  | Indonesia

Ethnic groups: Morro | Toraja | Gorontalo | Mandar

Loom Design/Loomates/Bhutan

Weberin mit einem bhutanesischen Hüftwebstuhl (Phang Thak) in Ihuentse, 2008 (wikimedia)

Loom Design/Loomates/Bangladesh

The Chakma people in Bangladesh are using loin looms with a circular warp for backstrap weaving.

Loom Design/Loomates/Thailand

Ethnic groups: | Karen

Loom Design/Loomates/Malaysia

There are actually no loin looms left on mainland Malaysia, but in Sarawak on Borneo island plenty of ethnic backstrap looms are left.

Loom Design/Loomates/Mexico   >>  | America

Maya Keramikfigur einer Weberin mit Hüftwebstuhl; evt. Darstellung der Göttin Ix Chel, 2012

(Gary Todd - wikimedia)

Bildquelle:

• wikimedia - Gary Todd: Maya Clay Figurine of Weaver with Backstrap Loom; May Represent Goddess Ix Chel, Maya Gallery, INAH, National Museum of Anthropology, Mexico City, 2015 - https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Maya_Clay_Figurine_of_Weaver_with_Backstrap_Loom;_May_Represent_Goddess_Ix_Chel.jpg

Loom Design/Loomates/Korea

Rekonstruktion eines halbgerahmten Hüftwebstuhls in Korea, Seoul Baekje Museum, 2016

(Todd - wikimedia)

Bildquelle:

• wikimedia - Gary Todd: Baekje Loom Reconstruction, Seoul Baekje Museum, 2016 - https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Baekje_Loom_Reconstruction_(30109364711).jpg

Loom Design/Loomates/Laos

The Katu people are one of the only left backstrap weaving ethnic groups in Laos using a foot loom with a circular warp.

Loom Design/Loomates/Minang Loom  >>  | Sumatra | Indonesia 

In general you won't find any traditional loin looms left of the Minang People in Minangkabau (Padang) on Sumatra in Indonesia. Most of the Minang changed to a significant Malaysian-type frame loom for commercial production. But it seems some few of these may have survived.

Loom Design/Loomates/Sumatra  >>  | Indonesia

Some ethnic groups on Sumatra keep going on using a traditional loin loom, while others changed to frame looms by the influence of Indian cotton weaving techniques coming in by Malaysia.

• The Staked Station Loom of Aceh in North Sumatra
• The Verandah Loom of the Batak People at Lake Toba
• The Station Loom of Palembang
• The expected Board Loom of Minangkabau

• The Frame Loom of Minangkabau
• An Indian Fly Loom in Minangkabau

Weberinnen am Hüftwebstuhl in Medan, Nord-Sumatra (Sumatera Utara), 1945-1955

(Tropenmuseum -wikimedia) 

In Anbetracht der Rundketten sollte es sich hier um Batak handeln, doch hierzu existieren keine genauen Angaben.

Bildquelle:

• Tropenmuseum - anonymous: Weefsters achter hun weeftoestellen, Sumatera Utara, 1945-1955 - https://hdl.handle.net/20.500.11840/455502

Loom Design/Loomates/Batak Loom  >>  | Sumatra | Indonesia 

The Batak people on Northern Sumatra in Indonesia are one of the tribes going on using a traditional loin loom of the stake loom-type for backstrap weaving.

Loom Design/Loomates/Nepal

Ethnic groups: | Sherpa

Loom Design/Loomates/Java    >> | Indonesia

Loin Looms of Java

Ethnic groups:  | Sundanese  | Kanekes/Baduy  | Javanese  | Madurese  | Banjuwangi

Loom types:  | station loom  | stilt loom  | gamelan

There are several ethnic groups on Java, each a different techniques of weaving. In general most traditional backstrap looms on Java are of this typical Indonesian style of weaving stations with ist batten rest tables. It seems these typical Indonesian weaving station type was once invented or developed on Java and spread from here to neighbouring islands (Sumatra, Bali, Lombok). 

Station looms on Java

One of this station-type of backstrap looms we can even find in Vietnam. It belongs to the Cham people, a part of the Sundanese people, who once came from Borneo. There are plenty of different styled weaving stations on Java, but not all ethnic groups use such a station. But in most cases no ethnic group on Java works still with a plain stake loom. We may find stilt looms like the Kanekes people, a part of the Sundanese people, in West-Java.

Sundanese - Javanese

Basically we can differ Sundanese looms from Javanese by the way, how its flat warp is wound around its warp board. The Sundanese warp is wrapped down under, while the Javanese type is wrapped above, what generally enables the weaver to rest her feet on the warp board for tension-support. But most Javanese loom-types use an added foot-brace nowadays.

Stilt Looms, Quarter Stilts & Gamelans

Next to the long type of stilt loom of the Kanekes (Baduy) other ethnic groups, especially in the area around Jakarta, use a kind of backstrap looms with smaller stilts (quarter stilts) or an advanced type of quarter-stilts, that are connected to a kind of early-type station without any rails. but it's these rails, that define the station loom-type. These early types include in most cases a built-in foot-brace. They can stand by themselves, but for weaving they have to be connected to the wall by a rope, same as any stilt loom needs to. We call these early types of quarter stilt-stations "Gamelan", similar to this famous Indonesian music instrument, due to its outfit! But in fact we group them to the stilt looms, building its own subgroup "Gamelan". This is the advanced type of a stilt loom, what means they are on half way to become a station loom.

The Flat Warp of Java

The very most of backstrap looms on Java use the flat warp, but the early style was the circle warp. Nowadays just the Banjuwangi loom at the edge of East-Java, close to Bali uses still the original circle warp. That change to flat warp happened by the influence of Indian cotton weaving techniques using a reed comb, that reached the island by their own interest on Indian patola. This change was needed due to the added reed comb!

>> Loin Looms of Java - backstrap weaving

Watch Mac & Magic's Loomates-playlist on youTube:

Backstrap weaving Java Looms

Loom Design/Loomates/India

The textiles of India had that much impact onto the Austronesian and Austro-asian loin loom cultures, that even the techniques and loin looms in Southeast Asia got remarkable changes. In general there are no loin looms in India, but the Northeastern region of the so-called Seven Sisters States.

Loom Design/Loomates/Japan

There are several types of backstrap weaving looms in Japan, but it's difficult to determine which is Austronesian or a Austro-asiatic type. Japanese societies using a backstrap loom don't belong to one of both! Just the looms may derive originally from one or the other group.

Japanese backstrap looms of Austro-asiatic origin?

In general it seems most types of backstrap looms in Japan are a kind of weaving station with a built-in seat (half-frame looms). similar to what you find in China and Korea. So this may be a reason, we could talk about a modified version with austro-asiatic origin. Seat looms like this are used to weave the yuki tsumuki (結城紬 - a special Japanese silk) in authentic manner. This type of an authentic Japanese backstrap loom is called jibata (地機). 

The backstrap weaving knot loom of the Ainu people

But there are also these backstrap weaving knot looms of the Ainu people on Hokkaido. That's maybe the most origin "Japanese" backstrap looms, that don't belong to any of these both groups. Ainu belong to a ethnic group beyond this period, who were once found all over Japan, before new ethnic groups entered the islands.

Austronesian influence

But there was a lot of Austronesian influence, reaching Japan. In Japanese museums it's been discussed, that even these typical Japanese kimonos bear relics of this Austronesian influence. Following this discussions, the cut of the kimono goes back onto coats of Austronesian seafarers. 

Loom Design/Loomates/Indonesia/Borneo

Ikat auf einem Hüftwebstuhl aus Borneo/Kalimantan, Indonesien, ca. 1910 (wikimedia)

in: J.E. Jasper en Mas Pirngadie: De inlandsche kunstnijverheid in Nederlandsch Indië: II: De weefkunst, 1912

Bildquelle:

• Universiteit Leiden - anonymous: Ikat op een weefgetouw uit Borneo, ca. 1910 - http://hdl.handle.net/1887.1/item:819155

Nahaufnahme eines Pnihing-Hüftwebstuhls auf Zentral-Borneo/Kalimantan Tengah, ca. 1925 (wikimedia)

Bildquelle:

• Universiteit Leiden - anonymous: Weefgetouw van de Pnihing Dajaks te Boven Mahakam op Midden-Borneo, ca. 1925 - http://hdl.handle.net/1887.1/item:782176

Loom Design/Loomates/Myanmar

Der einfache Hüftwebstuhl der Karen in Myanmar [B?]

Karen Hip Loom

ကညီကလုာ် ("kani ga") - S'gaw Karen

ၦဖျိၩ့ဆၨၩ (?) - Western Pwo

ပ်ုဖၠုံဆိုဒ် (xsai) - Eastern Pwo

ကရင်လူမျိုး (karen luumyoe) - Karen (Karenni/Kayah/Kayah Li)

กะเหรี่ยง (keriyang) - Karen (S'gaw/S'gaw K'Nyaw)

กี่เอว (ki-eo) - Hüftwebstuhl

กี่เ (ki) - Webstuhl

Die Karen stammen aus Myanmar, man findet sie heutzutage aber auch entlang der westlichen Grenze von Thailand zu Myanmar. Sie gehören zur austro-asiatischen Gruppe. Im Gegensatz zu einem Hüftwebstuhl der Maya in Amerika weist der Hüftwebstuhl der Karen sich durch eine stabile, parallele Anbindung sowie im besten Fall durch einen Hüftbaum aus. Dieser Standard kann gewöhnlich auch bei anderen asiatischen Hüftwebstühlen beobachtet werden. Hinzu wird eine Endloskette durch den Einsatz des "Zauberstab" ermöglicht; etwas, was man bei vielen amerikanischen Hüftwebstühlen nicht beobachten kann. Ebenso ersetzt er den Einsatz eines Riets als Breithalter, wie es die Ainu benutzen. Bei diesem Zauberstab handelt es sich um den Keulstab, der dazu dient, die Kettfäden bei Bedarf hier anzubinden und außerdem eine Art Breithalter darstellt, ähnlich Geleseleisten. 

Es ist nicht klar, inwieweit der Hüftbaum bei den Karen tradiert ist oder erst in jüngster Zeit übernommen worden ist. Die meisten Karen arbeiten heutzutage mit einem Hüftgürtel ohne den Einsatz eines Hüftbaums. Allerdings ist dieser für schmale Ketten auch nicht nötig! So kann man auch bei den Karen in Thailand beobachten, dass sie zeitweise einfache Flachketten anstatt der tradierten Rundketten einrichten. Viele Touristen lernen es so von den Karen! Doch scheinen die Flachketten auch nur eine Übernahme jüngster Zeit zu sein, um eben den Touristen den Einstieg in diese Webkunst zu erleichtern!

Karen Gangelt

Das Gangelt der Karen basiert auf einem einfachen Stamm-Prinzip. Litzen- wie Keulstab (Zauberstab!) werden im Gegensatz zum Gangelt der Maya schon während des Prozesses in die Kette eingebunden. Zur Anlage der Litzen wird die Fachrolle eingesetzt, die anschließend durch einen Litzenstab ersetzt wird. Der Umfang der Fachrolle bestimmt dabei die Länge der Litzen.

Ethnische Gruppe: Karen (austro-asiatisch) - Myanmar/Thailand

Kategorie: [B] Extern-gestützter, körpergespannter Handwebstuhl mit Rundkette

Gruppe: Pflockwebstuhl

Details: 

Kett-Typ: Rundkette

Loom Design/Loomates/Indonesia/Timor

Der Hüftwebstuhl auf Timor [B]

Timor Stake Loom

Ein Hüftwebstuhl mit Rundkette auf Timor in Indonesien an einem einfachen Pflockwerk im Freien befestigt....

Eine Weberin auf Timor mit einem Ikat-Tuch auf ihrem Hüftwebstuhl, den sie mit einem Hüftjoch

an ihrem Rücken spannt, 1900-1940 (Tropenmuseum - wikimedia)

Bildquellen:

• Tropenmuseum - Timorese weefster met ikat doek op haar weefgetouw dat zij zelf gespannen houdt met een lendenjuk om haar rug, 1900-1940 - https://hdl.handle.net/20.500.11840/232104
• wikimedia - Hesse: Woman on a hand loom in Suai, East-Timor, 1989 - https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Hand-loom-timor.jpg 
• wikimedia -Instituto de Investigação Científica Tropical: Como se tecem os Panos de Timor, Timor português, vor 1945 - https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Como_se_tecem_os_Panos_de_Timor.jpg
• wikimedia - Clementina de Oliveira: Eine Frau in Oecusse webt einen Tais, Timor, 2015 - https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=994937080565805&set=a.994806077245572 
• wikimedia - Hans-Peter Grumpe: Frau mit Kindern am Webstuhl nahe Suai, Ost-Timor, 2003 - https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Woman_with_children_at_a_loom_near_Suai.jpg

Weberin an einem Hüftwebstuhl in Suai, Ost-Timor, 1989

(Hesse - wikimedia)

Das Weben von Panos auf einem Hüftwebstuhl in Timor, vor 1945 (wikimedia)

Pflockwebstuhl oder Webstation: Eine Frau in Oecusse webt einen Tais auf einem Hüftwebstuhl in Timor, 2015 

(Oliveira - wikimedia)

Weberin mit Kindern an einem Pflockwerk mit Hüftwebstuhl (Ikat) nahe Suai in Ost-Timor, 2003 

(Grumpe - wikimedia)

Ethnische Gruppe: ...? (austronesisch) - Timor, Indonesien.

Kategorie: [B] Extern-gestützter, körpergespannter Handwebstuhl mit Rundkette

Gruppe: Pflockwebstuhl

Details: 

Kett-Typ: Rundkette

Weberin mit Hüftwebstuhl, vermutlich in Soë, Zentral-Timor Süd, ca. 1930

(Universiteit Leiden - wikimedia)

Bildquelle:

• Universiteit Leiden - anonymous: Vrouw achter een weefgetouw, vermoedelijk te Soë, Timor Tengah Selatan - http://hdl.handle.net/1887.1/item:768390

Loom Design/Loomates/Indonesia/Bali

Die Webstation des Balian [C]

Bali Board Loom

Die Webstation von Bali in Indonesien zeichnet sich ebenfalls durch eine Kettbrett aus. Das Pfostenwerk ist zu einem standfesten Möbel mit Standschienen angewachsen, die die Mobilität des Webgeräts beschränken. Teils ist das Pfostenwerk gerne reichhaltig mit Schnitzarbeiten verziert. Es gibt aber auch schlicht, funktional gestaltete Modelle ohne solchen Zierrat. Ebenso ist der Einsatz eines ausgeprägten Hüftbaums zu verzeichnen.

Standard Flachkette

Die Flachkette wird wie bei sundanesischen Modellen nach unten abgewickelt. Auch hier wird die Spannung zugleich noch mit den Füssen gegeben; das letzte Erbe der Fusswebstühle. 

Balinesische Rundketten

Auf Bali herrscht ein wahres Sammelsurium von Webtechniken, die nebeneinander her bestehen. So findet man neben der nach unten abgewicktelten Flachkette auch Hüftwebstühle mit Rundketten. Wahrscheinlich für die Herstellung von traditionellen Ikat-Stoffen. Bali ist auch einer der wenigen Plätze auf der Welt, wo Doppelikat (Ketten- und Schuss-Ikat) hergestellt wird. Rundketten sind praktisch fast unerläßlich für eine korrekte Herstellung von Ikat-Stoffen. Welches Modell von beiden nun das für Bali üblichere und gar urtümliche darstellt, ist kaum zu beantworten.

Aufbockungen

Indonesische Webstationen tendieren allesamt dazu, die Webstation auf die untergelegte Fuss-Stütze aufzubocken, so das eine leichte des Webstuhls nach hinten entsteht. In Bali kann man wie schon auf Java diverse Methoden der Aufbockung der Webstation beobachten, die bis in die Extreme geht. Manchmal kann man Aufbockungen mittels Steinen oder Holzbalken bis zu 40° beobachten. In diesem Augenblick wird die Fuss-Stütze vor die Unterleg-Steine gedrückt. Ebenso kann Abweichungen beim Einsatz der Fuss-Stütze beobachten, denn viele Weberinnen sitzen im Schneidersitz oder gar auf einem Schemel.

Krallen

Auch die meisten der balinesischen Webstationen weisen Krallen unter den Kettbaumstützen auf.

Webpodest

In Bali kann man wie auch auf der Nachbarinsel Lombok vermehrt den Einsatz von Webpodesten beobachten. Hier greifen die Krallen der Webstation am Rand des Podestes.

Bildquellen:

• Jasper/Roth 
• Tropenmuseum - Balinese vrouwen rond een weefgetouw, ca. 1922 - https://hdl.handle.net/20.500.11840/929635
• Tropenmuseum - Balinese vrouwen met weefgetouw en haspel, 1935 - https://hdl.handle.net/20.500.11840/232092
• Tropenmuseum - Weefgetouw voor sanongs van zijde, Bali, 1900-1940 - https://hdl.handle.net/20.500.11840/232097
• Tropenmuseum - Boy Lawson: Een weefster achter een weefgetouw in de textielfabriek Balitex (A weaver with a weaving loom in Balitex textile factory), Denpasar, Bali 1971 - 

• Tropenmuseum - Boy Lawson: Balinese weefster achter haar weeftoetsel (A weaver with a weaving loom), Bali 1971 

• Tropenmuseum - Vrouw bij weefgetouw, Bali 1911-1914 - https://hdl.handle.net/20.500.11840/420133
• Tropenmuseum - Kurkdjian: Bali, meisje aan het weefgetouw, 1900-1921 - https://hdl.handle.net/20.500.11840/8562
• Universiteit Leiden - Vrouw achter een weefgetouw op Bali, ca. 1920 - http://hdl.handle.net/1887.1/item:842195

Ethnische Gruppe:  Balinesen (austronesisch) - Bali, Indonesien.

Kategorie: [C] Extern-gestützter, körpergespannter Handwebstuhl mit Flachkette

Gruppe: Webstation  | Brettwebstuhl | Rietwebstuhl

Details: Kettbrett; (Kreuzstäbe?); Hüftjoch; Rietkamm; Schwertablage, teils Sitzbänkchen. 

Kett-Typ: Flachkette (unterführt)

Balinesin mit Hüftwebgerät unter Reisspeicher, 1910-1921 (Kurkdjian - wikimedia)

Loom Design/Loomates/China

Weberin mit Hüftwebstuhl in Lilijiang, Yunnan, China, 2012 (CEphoto, Uwe Aranas - wikimedia)

Loom Design/Loomates/Philippines

Regions: | Luzon  | Visayas  | Mindanao

Characteristics of Filipino Looms are the typical oversized, long warps. Northern types of Luzon have a kind of seat-box or cart. The weaving tools are kept quiet simple in most cases; some use a reed comb, other don't!

You can't find any foot looms, as you do in Taiwan. There seems to be no connection recognisable by the design and construction; in general all warps used on the Philippines are of the circular type.

Following the expansion on its way to Indonesia, we can recognise the development of the looms on one hand, and on the other hand we can follow the way the Austronesian migration took into Indonesia from Mindanao via Sangir Island onto Sulawesi, and later Borneo and Java.

DE

Hüftwebstühle auf den Philippinen

Filipino Loin Loom

Charakteristisch für Hüftwebstühle der Filipinos sind die typischen überlangen Ketten. Webstuhltypen aus dem nördlichen Luzon haben meist einen SItzkasten. Eine Art Seifenkiste ohne Räder! Die einzelnen Komponenten des Hüftwebstuhls sind oft einfach gehalten. Manche benutzen ein Riet, andere wieder nicht!

Es finden sich verwunderlicher Weise keine Fusswebstühle auf den Philippinen, wie man sie auf Taiwan fast ausschließlich findet. Verwunderlich weil man jahrelang nach der Out-of-Taiwan-Theorie davon ausging, dass die Besiedlung der Philippinen durch die Austronesier von Taiwan her geschah. Mittlerweile hat man diese Annahme korrigiert. Wie die Abwesenheit von Fusswebstühlen bestätigen mag, wurde Taiwan viel früher von vom Festland stammenden Austronesiern besiedelt. Die Besiedlung der Philippinen geschah wahrscheinlich eher vom chinesischen Festland aus. Der Ausbreitung auf den Philippinen auf dem Weg südwarts nach Indonesien folgend, erkennen wir einerseits die allmähliche Entwicklung der Hüftwebstühle. Andererseits können wir so den Weg der austronesischen Ausbreitung nach Indonesien von Mindanao via der Insel Sangir  nach Sulawesi und später nach Borneo bis nach Java verdeutlichen.

Grundsätzlich werden Rundketten auf den Philippinen eingesetzt.

siehe Pflockwebstühle:

• B'laan
• Ifuago
• Baguio

Luzon (Nord-Philippinen)

• Igorot
• Bontoc

Mindanao (Süd-Philippinen)

• Yakan
• T'boli

Loom Design/Loomates/Vietnam

DE

Hüftwebstühle Vietnams

Bildquelle:

• VIETNAM, HO CHI MINH - FEBRUARY 6, 2016: Portrait Of Vietnamese Woman In Traditional Conical Hat, Non La Weaving Yarn On Street. Female Textile Weaver Preparing Warp On Hand Backstrap Loom Outdoors

https://www.dreamstime.com/editorial-stock-photo-vietnam-ho-chi-minh-vietnamese-woman-weaving-yarn-street-february-portrait-traditional-conical-hat-non-la-female-textile-image73851843

Vietnam ist ein Hotspot und Schmelztiegel für Webkulturen aus allen Himmelsrichtungen. Hier trifft der Einfluss indischer Baumwolltechniken via Thailand auf die vielfältigen Errungenschaften vom benachbarten China. Hier sammeln sich uralte Techniken diverser Völker und mischen sich unter die neueren. Aber auch die Erfahrungen auf den Inseln werden hier ans Festland gespült, wie etwa die Webstation der Cham, welche einst das sagenhafte Königreich Champa um etwa 200 CE im heutigen Südvietnam errichteten. Neben diversen Rahmenwebstühlen finden sich unterschiedliche Hüftwebstühle von diversen Völkern in Vietnam; dazu zählen:

1. Der Katu Fusswebstuhl (siehe Fusswebstühle) 
2. Der Fusswebstuhl der Ta Oi
3. Die Hüftwebstation der Chams (siehe Webstationen)
4. Der Fusswebstuhl des Li-Volkes in unterschiedlichen Ausprägungen  (siehe Fusswebstühle) 
5. darunter auch ein Li-Modell mit doppeltem Kettbaum (siehe Fusswebstühle) 
6. Der Trittwebstuhl der Hmong (siehe Stelzenwebstühle) 

1. Und diverse Ausprägungen chinesischer Half-Frame Looms (siehe Sitzwebstühle)
2. Ky Sun Webstuhl
3. Tai Dam Rahmenwebstühl aus Bambusrohren (siehe Rahmenwebstühle) 
4. Mattenwebstühle (siehe Rahmenwebstühle) 

Loom Design/Loomates/Warping

Warping methods of loin looms 

Several ethnic methods of warping for Austronesian & Austro-asian backstrap looms.

Next to weaving devices this collection focuses also onto the belonging warping devices, its tools and methods. Just the most important ones have been recorded here. That states the development from first simple stake warpings to real warping furnitures (Koshrae). All began with short stakes or pegs, that have been driven into the ground. For this archaic method you won't need any further warping tool or device, but a hammer or at least a stone, to drive the stake into ground. For small warps leaf vains of palm may have been enough; for ritual use many people use "stems" (shrub) of bananas. Both methods drive pointed stakes schematically. A more stable und durable version of this solution is done by bamboo canes, followed by wooden stems and later by bars. All these methods use either the ground or any kind of warping bar. In most cases this bar, no matter what kind of, is the only additional tool, needed for these warping methods; other needed items are solved by the bars of the loin loom itself.

Next to all these vertical warping methods (all tools are in vertical position) there are also some horizontal warping methods, that you find mainly in the Seven Sister States of Northeast-India. For these horizontal methods there is no need of a warping bar. A simple (measuring) rope or just a helping hand will do, too!

• Measuring rope - horizontal (Karbi)

• Ground stake - vertical
• Palm vein - vertical (Carolines)
• Banana shrub - vertical
• Bamboo cane - vertical
• Warping stem - vertical
• Warping bar - vertical (Karen)
• Wall warping - vertical (Chakma)
• Warping furniture - vertical (Koshrae)

Examples of ethnic warping methods

• Warping method of Katu people
• Warping on the Carolines
• Warping of Karbi
• Warping of Chakma
• Warping on Koshrae
• Warping of Phang Thak
• Warping of Gorontalo

Loom Design/Loomates/Indonesia

Indonesian islands:  Sumatra | Borneo | Sulawesi | Java | Bali | Lombok | Flores | Sumba  | Sumbawa | Timor | Tanimbar

Ethnic groups:  Batak | Palembang | Kanekes/Baduy | Javanese | Sundanese | Banjuwang | Sikka | Ngada | Morro

Loom Types:  Stake Loom  | Station Loom  | Gamelan  | Crawl Loom  | 

Watch Mac & Magic's playlist on youTube:

Backstrap Looms of Indonesia

Indonesische Weberin an einer Hüftwebstation, 1880-1920 (Tropenmuseum - wikimedia)

https://hdl.handle.net/20.500.11840/215346

Loom Design/Loomates/Taiwan

Taiwan Looms - 台灣织机

As there are no groups of Austronesian ethnic left on Chinese mainland, for a long period Taiwan seemed to be the origin of Austronesian culture and its loin looms, from where it spread all over the Southeast Asian islands. 

Examples of ethnic loin looms on Taiwan Island

• Atayal Box Loom/Trunk Loom
• Paiwan Cane Loom

Loom Design/Loomates/Table of Contents

A table of the contents of Loomates wanted - backstrap weaving so far listed

•  in order of nations and regions, sub-ordered by Austronesian and Austro-asiatic group.
• A list of non-Austro loin looms is added.
• Followed by a list in order of ethnic groups.

The following pages are bilingual (english/german). At the moment some parts may appear just in one of both languages; that should change soon, but step by step! Focus is to reach "anyone" by a plain English. But some compact themes, we have to articulate first in our native language (German) to translate later on.  As far as possible, informations in other languages of local interest may be added (Chinese, Japanese, Hindu, Thai, Bahasa Indonesia, etc.). Anyway, at the end the collected public images (pictures and videos) of the last centuries shell tell more than a thousand words....

Backstrap weaving LOOMates 

Backstrap weaving Austronesian & Austro-asiatic Loin Looms

• Backstrap weaving Austronesian Loin Looms
• • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Taiwan
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of the Philippines
  • • Loin Looms in Luzon - backstrap weaving
    • Loin Looms in Visayas - backstrap weaving
    • Loin Looms in Mindanao - backstrap weaving
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Indonesia
  • • Loin Looms on Sumatra - backstrap weaving
    • Loin Looms on Borneo - backstrap weaving 
    • Loin Looms of Sulawesi - backstrap weaving
    • Loin Looms on Java - backstrap weaving
    • Loin Looms on Bali - backstrap weaving
    • Loin Looms on Lombok
    • Loin Looms on Timor - backstrap weaving
    • Loin Looms on Sumba
    • Loin Looms on Sumbawa
    • Loin Looms of Flores -backstrap weaving
  • Pacific Looms - backstrap weaving
  • • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Melanesia
    • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Micronesia
  • An Austronesian Loom on Madagascar

• Backstrap weaving Austro-asiatic Loin Looms
• • Backstrap Looms of China
  • Backstrap weaving Tibetan Looms
  • Loin Looms of Bhutan - backstrap weaving
  • Backstrap weaving Seven SIsters
  • • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Arunachal Pradesh
    • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Assam
    • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Mizoram
    • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Tripura
    • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Nagaland
    • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Manipur
    • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Meghalaya
  • Backstrap weaving Sikkim Looms
  • Loin Looms of  Bangladesh - backstrap weaving
  • Backstrap weaving Looms of Myanmar
  • Loin Looms of Thailand - backstrap weaving
  • Loin Looms of Laos - backstrap weaving
  • Backstrap weaving Looms of Vietnam
  • Backstrap weaving Looms in Cambodia 
• Non-Austro Loin Looms of Asia & others
• • Loin Looms of Japan - backstrap weaving
  • Loin Looms of Korea - backstrap weaving
  • Looms of India
  • Looms of Nepal
  • Loin Looms of Africa - backstrap weaving
  • Mat Looms in Asia

• Native Loin Looms of America

• Loins Looms by ethnic groups
• • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Chakma People
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Karbi People
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Mishing People
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Mishmi People
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Adi People
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Lotha People
•  
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Karen People
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Katu People
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Hmong People
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Li People
• Taiwan
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Atayal People
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Paiwan People
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Seediq People
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Kavalan People
•  Philippinen
  • Loin Looms of Igorot People - backstrap weaving
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Yakan People
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of T'Boli People
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of B'Laan People
• Indonesien
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Aceh People
  • Loin Looms of Batak People - backstrap weaving
  • Loin Looms of Minang People - backstrap weaving
  • Loin Looms of Palembang People - backstrap weaving
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Sundanese People
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Kanekes/Baduy People
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Javanese People
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Balinese People
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Lombok People
  • Loin Looms of Sikka People - backstrap weaving
  • Backstrap weaving Loin Looms of Morro People 

Categories of Looms in Science

• Categories & Grouping of Loin Looms
• 1. Backstrap weaving Foot Looms
  2. Backstrap weaving Stake Looms
  3. Backstrap weaving Stilt Looms
  4. Backstrap weaving Station Looms
  5. Backstrap weaving Seat Looms
  6. Backstrap weaving Frame Looms

• Loin Looms by details
• • Reed Loom / Batten Loom
  • Yoke Loom / Belt Loom
  • Board Loom / Beam Loom
  • Box Loom (Trunk Loom)
  • Tree Loom / Verandah Loom
  • Rest Loom (Batten Rest Table)
  • Brace Loom (Foot-Brace)
  • Lease Loom / Coil Loom
  • Cane Loom (Bamboo Warp Cane)

Learning Backstrap weaving

• The Warping of Loin Looms
• • 16 seconds on Preparing Backstrap weaving
  • Backstrap weaving a Flat Warp
  • Backstrap weaving a Circular Warp

• Components of Loin Looms
• • Importance of a Weaving Mat 

Appendix

• Images of Loin Looms

Loom Design/Loomates/America  >> | Guatemala  | Mexico  | Peru  | Ecuador  | Inka  | Maya

American Loin Looms

Telar de cintura

First at all, there is no connection between American and Asian loin looms, that's what science states! No, not at all! Science states, that there is yet no proof found for a connection like that.

Clovis in Mind First

A first at all thinkable version of the global expansion of loin loom techniques from Asia to America is the Clovis culture about 12.000 years ago. That means loin loom techniques are much older than the Austronesian culture.

Possibly Polynesian Propaganda

Another possibility seems the migration of the Polynesian to several spots at the Pacific coast of America. So these contacts led to extraordinary cultural exchange. Funny how, you won't any loin looms on Pacific Islands as further you sail eastwards. That means, Polynesians, once backstrap weaving, had an great impact on American weaving culture, but lost it by themselves in a sudden. Slightly possible, but strange! Anyway, this exchange might have happened a thousand years ago; so pretty young!

Out of Africa Again

Younger excavations show out that the days of the Clovis theory are out of count! Younger theories expect a migration from the west coast of Africa to Brasil at least 25.000 years ago. This may be a third possibility how loin loom weaving may have passed the Ocean. This may give us a hint how old the technique is.

Out of my shelf

Anyway, oldest finds of handwoven textiles state, that looms are in use at least since 32.000 years. Just no one can state, which techniques have been just that time. We can argue in both ways, mentioning weaving with a loom a simple thing or honouring it as a complex cultural evolution, that doesn't come up just by itself! At the end it bases on daily necessary plaiting and braiding processes a society can't succeed without these basics! So, a creation of a native American loin loom by their own within America is another, fourth real possibility.

Playlist on Native Loin Looms of America at youtube!

Examples of native loin looms in America

• Maya Loom (Maya people - Guatemala)
• Inka Loom (Inka people - Peru)

Navajo, Mexico, Guatemala

Hüftwebstuhl aus den Anden, 2019 (wikimedia)

Loom Design/Reaching Space/Vietnam  >> | Cham People

With this Champa Station Loom of the Cham people we are going to reach Central Vietnam backstrap weaving. At the moment we are still busy setting up the space warper for that trip, tuning the beamed warp and the loom.

Loom Design/Reaching Space/Bangladesh  >> | Chakma People

With this warping device for a loin loom, similar to those of the Chakma people in Bangladesh and the surrounding Seven Sister States of Northeast-India we are reaching Bangladesh - preparing backstrap weaving.

Loom Design/Reaching Space

A series of short videos introducing you to several important models of Austronesian & Austro-asiatic backstrap weaving looms (loin looms).

Loom Design/Reaching Space/Austronesia  >> | Stilt Loom

An experimantal Mish Mush Loom

There are not that much models of backstrap weaving looms with long stilts, actually just about five of them are known:

• The Phang Thak of Bhutan
• (and its several variations in Arunachal Pradesh and surrounding area)
• the stilt loom of the Kanekes/Baduy people on Java
• the Gorontalo Loom of Sulawesi
• and the Hmong Loom in Southern China/Vietnam.

So we see, looms with that long stilts are not just a regional thing; even they are seldom, they are spread all over the Austronesian AND Austro-asiatic regions! 

We draw a theoretical connection between these here shown backstrap weaving stilt loom-types. The components of the looms stay the same, just the leading of the warp is changing.

1) The Phang Thak of Bhutan

Starting with the triangular leading of Phang Thak from Bhutan, we modify it by some further beams between the stilts.

2) The Zig-Zag of Phang Thak in Arunachal Pradesh

The warp is led on a zig-zag course between these extra beams, so the familiar triangular leading of the Bhutan Loom gets lost. Even the wooden components of the loom stay the same! You may find this kind of warp leading in Arunachal Pradesh. These extra beams don't just effect the aesthetic of the Phang Thak but the tension of the warp.  

This bears a lot of options of further modifications, mainly focused on manipulating the tension of your loom for different textiles!

3) The Gorontalo Loom of Sulawesi

The warp of a Gorontalo Loom on Sulawesi is L-shaped. For this we take off the zig-zag and lead the circular warp once up and down between the stilts. Already this one extra beam (4 beams) has an effect on the warp tension, comparing to the three beams of the original Phang Thak (3 beams). So you may imagine the strong effect of the Zig-Zag version! Of course, for a go with the Gorontalo Loom you need a long warp of about 4 m or more! 

4)  The Kanekes Stilt Loom on Java

As you may observe, all these three ethnical looms are done with one and the same pair of bamboo stilts. In another session we simulated with these stilts even a stilt loom of the Kanekes people in West-Java.

The exposed warp

All these looms, except the Kanekes Loom, prefer to expose the warp in its whole length unrolled for certain purpose. The extra beams needed for this support the tension management of such exposed warps. That's where the long stilts gets reasonable for. The Kanekes use a rolled-up flat warp instead of one of these exposing circular warps. Here we can't observe any special shaping of the warp leading. The height of this stilts may have lost their reason for further tensioning. The flexible fixation on their upper end spends another reason of their use.

Warping a cultural space

On top the characteristic shape of the stilts including warp board forms the basic element of a stilt house. All of these stilt models are aware of the representation of their cultural loom, not just the garment. What means, "the stage gets part of the loom!"

An early exchange of Austro-asiatic & Austronesian culture 

We are working on a theory, if there isn't a historical connection between most of this high stilt looms. Balinese people keep going on, that the inner circle of their people came down from the Himalaya, even there is not much proof! In the Majapahit-era there was a strong maritime trading connection between Northeast-India and Nusantara (Indonesia), most of Balinese connection to this region may result from that era. In this time the stilt looms may have been imported from Northeast-India to Indonesia. In this case the Balinese must have lost their high stilt looms meanwhile. But it seems Austro-asiatic people have reached the region overland before Austronesian people reached West Indonesia. That means, high stilt loom types may have been spread from Northeast-India all over the Southeast Asian mainland (Suvarnabhumi) downwards to the island world (Suvarnadvipa). 

Built-in Stilts of Karen People

Another proof for this theory may be the built-in stilts, Karen people in Myanmar/Thailand like to use. These stilts are not a part of their loom, but you can observe constructions of bamboo stilts like this inside of their weaving huts. This means, the transfer between verandah looms and stilt looms may get visible here. So verandah looms may not be a part of the stake looms, but the group of stilt looms!

Loom Design/Warping/Karbi Loom | > Karbi people

 The weaver Samili Ingtipi will show you in this video the way of a horizontal warping method and introduce us to the  components of the Karbi Loom.

Components of the Karbi loom

It's a bit confusing as the weaver in the video uses other english terms, so I hope I got it right, but watch it yourself! Maybe we are just getting confused by the fact she exchanges the functions of some components for the warping process..... Anyway, don't mind the terms, the process is correct! That counts!

Thening/Thining (breast beam plus rolling stick)

The Thening/Thining she calls the shed rod, but that's definitely no shed rod! Two wooden sticks for the shed? The spelling of the words changes anyway from author to author. What she calls Thining are actually the plain breast beam plus an identical rolling stick, to manage tension and fixation of the warp by roll-up a bit of the ready done textile. Both sticks have a deepening on each end of the stick leading the connected rope of the belt (Thehu/Thihu).

U'vek (pattern sticks)

What she calls thin sticks (U'vek) are actually pattern sticks. Not really needed as long you are not into supplementary weaving, for a plain weave you may leave them away! But they are very useful in many cases, i. e. to regulate the tension of some loose threads in the warp! Anyway case to case you may need some extra sticks; three of these thin sticks bundled become another heddle stick!?

Theilang pong/Thelangpong (shed roll)

The Theilang pong/Thelangpong she calls the heddle rod! This must be a confusion of english terms; it's definitely the shed roll! Made by a bamboo cane of 4 cm in diameter! Anyway most of the components seems to be done by bamboo!

Harpi (batten sword)

The Harpi (batten sword) is done by hard wood, due to its needed weight for cotton weaving. For silk work Karbi people use many time just a bamboo batten. Also the breast beam and the rolling stick are made from wood. Funny how the warp beam of the Karbi Loom seems to be made by hard wood, even we may observe many other tribes using a bamboo cane for warp beam. The batten sword in general is used to beat-in the weft while the weaving process. 

While the warping process the Harpi gets a new function; it's used to control the size of the heddles by the height of its blade. 

Hi-e-pong-lang & Hi-i (heddle bar & heddle)

She builds all heddles by just one on-going heddle thread (Hi-i), lined up on one heddle bar (Hi-e-pong-lang). But for the warping process the heddle bar itself isn't needed, it comes in afterwards. While the warping process the Harpi (batten sword) is used instead of the heddle bar in place. The heights of its blade is perfect to control the size (length) of the heddles. Most other loin loom cultures use the shed roll to control the size of heddles while warping. 

Western frame looms need at least two heddle bars for a plain weave. As loin looms work with the shed roll, this makes the natural shed. For each further shed a heddle bar is needed. So that's why you need just one heddle bar for a plain weave. For a 2/1 twill you need at least 3 heddle bars using any loom   without a shed roll, but in case of using a shed roll, you need just two of them. 

Thihun (measuring rope)

A very special thing of the Karbi warping method is the measuring rope (Thihun). It's just used while the warping process! In general the used components for warping get sticked into the ground for vertical warping methods or the support of a warping stem is needed to fixate the components onto its place for warping. For the same reason Karbi people use the measuring rope instead of a heavy stem or board.

Last and least she needs some yarn (hon) for the warp.

Loom components, used for warping:

Components of the Karbi Loin Loom in general:

1. Therang (warp beam)
2. U'vek (pattern sticks)
3. Theilang pong (shed roll)
4. Hi-e-pong-lang (heddle bar) with fixated Hi-i (heddle) on
5. Berlim 
6. Harpi (batten sword)
7. Adang (width-holder)
8. Thening (breast beam)
9. Thehu/Thihu (belt)
10. ... (foot-brace)
11. ... (weft stick)

Compare the components of the Karbi Loom with the regular Components of Loin Looms.

Loom Design/Components/Weaving Hut | > Karbi people

It's a pretty lovely celebration Karbi lady Samili Ingtipi introduces us to in her video. It shows out, that weaving isn't just done without the needed preparations and right circumstances. Out of this needed preparations the Karbi people invented a celebration:

The Warping Hut

There is a bamboo hut, at least a roof! Under this roof for each seasonal weaving session the floor is redone by fresh clay, what keeps the right humidity for the silk yarn. And of course, it eases to drive the stakes into ground that easy! That means, when Karbi people weave silk yarn, there are at least two huts for preparations. One shady and airy one on stilts for the caterpillar breeding and another one grounded with fresh clay for warping and maybe weaving.

Garden shade

We may observe Karbi people seated on the plain ground, just with a blanket. Most of these are weaving cotton (with a reed!), situated under a roof again. Even these are using the humidity of the soil beneath the warp.

This awareness of shade and humidity within Karbi society is something you won't observe that obviously with other loom cultures. The Chakma people in Bangladesh for instance seem not to care sitting in the sun while weaving. There is even no special location built for weaving; the warping is done in a corner of the living room. Just the weaving mat is spotting the location. But importance of shade and humidity isn't part of their weaving presentation.

• Shady and airy breeding hut on stilts
• Grounded warping hut (for warping and weaving silk)
• (optional: Garden shade (just for weaving cotton))

Loom Design/Loomates/Austronesia

Mac & Magic Loom Design focuses mainly on backstrap weaving loin looms of Austronesian & Austro-asiatic origin and its relatives. Next to these there are several native loin looms in North and South America and Africa. A few types of loin looms you may even find in Europe.

Asian Loin Looms

Most of loin looms in Asia belong to the Austronesian or Austro-asiatic group. In general it seems easy to differ Austronesian looms from Austro-asiatic looms by the location: So, belongs the loom to Bali, a part of the Southeast Asian Islands (ISEA), it's classified as an Austronesian loom. The term Austronesia ("southern island") tells us this. Austro-asiatic in general are all loin looms on the mainland of Southeast Asia (MSEA). But it isn't that easy!

The Cham people in Vietnam belong to the Sundanese people, mainly found in Indonesia; they are a part of the Austronesian branch. So the loin loom of the Cham people in Vietnam is a good example for exceptions of this mainland/island-formula. In case of the Champa Loom it's seems a clear fact, but the Balinese Loin Loom is another example, where things keep confused. The loom by itself fits into the scheme of the surrounding Indonesian type of loin looms. Even there isn't that much proof, Balinese keep going on to mention, they came down the Himalaya! Is it just a myth? In this case the inner Balinese circle may have once belonged to the Austro-asiatic people. If so, it's still the question, if this had influence on their loom-type. Bali has anyway its own exotic mix of weaving traditions.

Fact is, that there was a long-lasting trading connection between the Northeastern area of India and Nusantara run by the Cham people, that led to the Majapahit-era on Java island. Anyway it seems the Austro-asiatic tribes had reached the region of Malaysia, Sumatra, Borneo and Java before the Austronesians arrived. So it gets difficult to verify, what is Austronesian and what Austro-asiatic. But in the case of Indonesian loin looms all are classified as Austronesian Looms to keep things easy. Therefor Filipino Looms may be clear examples of Austronesian-type loin looms with no or not that strong influence of Austro-asiatic loin looms. 

Loom Design/Loomates/Lotha | > Nagaland

The Lotha (Naga) people of Nagaland in the Seven Sister States of Northeast-India use a traditional backstrap weaving loin loom.

Loom Design/Loomates/Assam  >> | Seven Sister States

The Karbi/Mikir people of Assam in the Seven Sister States of Northeast-India are one of the Austro-asiatic ethnic groups using backstrap weaving loin looms. This weaver will show you their way of horizontal warping method.

Loom Design/Loomates/Adi Loom | > Arunachal Pradesh

The Adi people (आदी लोग/आदि लोग adee log; sometimes mentioned as Apatani/Abutani/Abotani) of Arunachal Pradesh in the Seven Sister States of Northeast-India use a backstrap weaving loin loom with a circular warp. You may find Adi people also in Tibet, China!

She weaves in a pretty diagonal manner, therefor she doesn't use a foot-brace.

Loom Design/Loomates/Mishmi Loom  >> | Arunachal Pradesh  | Tibet

The Mishmi people (Deng; मिश्मी लोग mishmi log; marathi: मिश्मी जनजाती miśmī jamāta) of Arunachal Pradesh (one of the Seven Sisters States in Northeast-India) and Tibet use a backstrap weaving loin loom.

Mainly three tribes are known: Idu Mishmi (Idu Lotha), Digaro (Taraon), Miju Mishmi (Kaman Deng). In China they are known as Deng/Dengbao (僜人), but registered as Lhoba. In Myanmar they are known as Taraung, Taraon and similar names.

Loom Design/Loomates/Mishing Loom  >>  | Assam | Arunachal Pradesh 

The Mishing people (Mising, Miri; assamese: মিচিং জনগোষ্ঠী) are a part of the Austro-asiatic group, located in Assam and Arunachal Pradesh (Seven Sister States), using a backstrap weaving loin loom.

Loom Design/Loomates/Karbi Loom  >>  | Assam 

The Karbi (कार्बी लोग karbee log; assamese/bangla: কাৰ্বি জনগোষ্ঠী) or Mikir people of Assam (Seven Sister States) in Northeast-India live mainly in the hill district of Karbi Anglong. They call themselves Arleng ("man"). They use a native backstrap weaving loin loom with a circular warp. You may observe two methods, one with a reed comb, the other without!

The loin loom of the Karbi people is a kind of stake loom-type, what means the loom gets externally-braced by two poles, driven into the ground. Many weaving tools of the Karbi are still done by bamboo. The culture of Karbi bases on weaving silk, that was done on their basic loom without the use of a reed comb. In contact with Indian culture of cotton weaving techniques brought the reed comb into their loom. (Maybe we should mention, that their "reed" comb, as all other "natural" reed combs on the world, are done by bamboo, but no "reed" at all!) Bamboo and silk, that's the combination that made their very own textile, because the moth, they get their silk from, lives in the bamboo. So, even the containers and huts for caterpillar breeding in Karbi villages are traditionally done by bamboo.

• Have a look onto the location and circumstances the weaver sets the warping and read about the Weaving hut of Karbi people.

Warping Tutorial

• Watch the tutorial Warping a Karbi Loin Loom by Samili Ingtipi! She runs the video channel Phirtak on youtube, that introduces you to the loin loom of the Karbi people.

Loom Design/Loomates/Chakma Loom  >>  | Bangladesh  

The Chakma people  (चकमा लोग chakama log; bengal.:  চাঙমা/চাকমা, chāngmā/cākmā) are spread all over the Seven Sister States of Northeast-India and Bangladesh. Their homeland are the Chittagong hill tracts. They have great skills in backstrap weaving all the length exposed circular warps of a wide width on rudimentary stake-type loin looms.

Loom Design/Loomates/Tripura Loom  >>  | Seven Sister States

Tripura (ত্রিপুরা) is one of the Seven Sister States of Northeast-India, a hot spot on backstrap weaving. The weaver is running a circular warp on a stake loom-type of backstrap weaving loin looms, what means, that the warp beam gets connected by two ropes to two poles. Science calls this an externally-braced, body-tensioned loom.

Honour the scenery: She is seated on a mat at her "verandah", while the poles are driven into the ground in front of the house. Other days she may turn the scenery, sitting in the yard, watching the house.

We can't really catch a closer look on this detail, but we can discover parts of it: She uses the pillars of her verandah for her foot-brace (the bamboo cane at the pillar). As her legs are not that long as she wants the extended warp to be (guess, the whole warp is about 6 m long), she actually uses a second, shorter bamboo cane in touch with her feet. Inbetween these two parts of foot-brace, there is another bamboo cane keeping both on the needed distance. The leading of the warp is pretty horizontal.

Difficult to determine, as there are no further information, but to me, this looks pretty much like Chakma-style backstrap weaving-skills: The 6 m long and quiet wide, horizontally-led warp. Another indication for Chakma is the use of multiple heddle bars in combination with great skills for pattern work by her pattern sticks. They are great in producing high quality under simple circumstances width just basic tools.

Loom Design/Loomates/Arunachal Pradesh  >> | Seven Sister States

Arunachal Pradesh (अरुणाचल प्रदेश) is one of the Seven Sister States of Northeast-India, where you find a great range of Austro-asiatic loin loom cultures.

Loom Design/Loomates/Mizoram  >> | Seven Sister States

Mizoram (मिज़ोरम) is one of the backstrap weaving Seven Sister States of Northeast-India with great designed textiles.

Loom Design/Loomates/Nagaland  >> | Seven Sister States

Nagaland (नागालैण्ड) is one of the Seven Sister States in Northeast-India, where backstrap weaving loin looms are a part of daily life! The loom with its circular warp is connected to a simple station. Watch more examples of loin looms in the playlist on Loin looms of Nagaland on youTube!

• Lotha Naga people
• Angami Naga people
• Pochury people

The Pochury are a part of the Nagas, several ethnic groups in Nagaland.

The Angami are a major Naga group in Nagaland. Some found even in Manipur.

Angami Warping

Angami Women Organisation, 2007: Angami people preparing the warp - https://www.dsource.in/sites/default/files/case-study/kraftemporary/research/loin-loom/images/04.jpg

Loom Design/Loomates/Seven Sister States  >> | Northeast India

The so-called Seven Sister States of Northeast-India are a hot spot of Austro-asiatic models of backstrap weaving loin looms (कमर करघा kamar karagha). 

The Neighbourhood of the Seven Sisters

But even in the neighbouring states of Bangladesh, Myanmar, Bhutan, Sikkim, Tibet and even Nepal you find loin looms. In Sikkim you may find mainly the type of Phang Thak, as known from Bhutan, and even in Arunachal Pradesh the Phang Thak is well known in many variations. Nepal is the western end of the cultural expansion of Austronesian & Austro-asiatic loin looms; in other areas of India or Pakistan, they are not known! The expansion of this hot spot leads to the western border of Thailand, where you find the Karen, the last backstrap weaving people in Thailand.

Other areas of Thailand down to Malaysia show no existing loin loom cultures anymore; once part of the Austro-asiatic expansion, loin loom culture vanished here totally by the influence of Indian techniques. Even on Sumatra loin looms are vanishing! By the Golden Triangle the hot spot of the Seven Sister States is connected to Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia, where we find another hot spot of Austro-asiatic loin looms.